Fragrance notes explained: top, heart and base

Every product page on this site lists notes in three groups. They are not decoration and they are not a recipe — they are a timeline. Knowing how to read it is the difference between buying blind and buying deliberately.

The three layers

Top notes: the first ten minutes

The smallest, lightest molecules, so they reach your nose first and leave first. Citrus (bergamot, lemon, grapefruit), light fruits, aromatic herbs and mint live here. Expect roughly five to fifteen minutes.

This is why you should never buy on the first sniff from a blotter. The opening is the part of a perfume you will spend the least time with.

Heart notes: the next few hours

The core of the composition, arriving as the top notes fade and lasting two to four hours. Florals (jasmine, rose, violet), spices (cinnamon, cardamom), green notes and most fruit accords sit here. When someone describes what a perfume "is", they are usually describing its heart.

Base notes: the rest of the day

The heaviest molecules: woods (sandalwood, cedar), resins (amber, myrrh), vanilla, tonka bean, tobacco, musk and leather. They appear early but only become dominant after a few hours, and they are what you still smell that evening. Base notes also anchor everything above them, slowing the whole composition down.

Reading a real one

Take Aphrodite. Its notes include jasmine and burnt cinnamon up top, myrrh, cedarwood and tonka through the middle, then sandalwood, tobacco, vanilla and mineral amber underneath. Almost all the weight is in the base, which tells you before you ever smell it that this is an evening fragrance that will last, sit fairly close to the skin and turn warm and smoky rather than bright. Its listed season — autumn and winter — follows from the same structure.

Now compare Slow Living, a citrus built to feel airy and immediate. Lighter structure, shorter life, entirely different job. Neither is better; they are built for different hours of the day.

Three things the pyramid will not tell you

How strong it is. Note lists have no volume control. A single well-chosen musk can dominate a list of twelve ingredients.

How it smells on you. Skin pH, temperature and how dry your skin is all shift the balance. This is not marketing — the same bottle genuinely reads differently on two people.

Whether you will like it. Plenty of people who dislike rose in isolation love rose compositions where it is a supporting note, like Moroccan Vanilla.

Using notes to choose

Work backwards from what you already own and like. Find one or two notes that keep appearing in your favourites, then filter for them. The All Perfumes page lets you filter by notes, scent family, season, occasion and intensity, so if vanilla keeps showing up in things you enjoy, start there.

Some useful shortcuts:

For the full map of how we group the range, read fragrance families explained. To understand the concentration on the box, see extrait vs eau de parfum, and if you are wondering why a citrus fades faster than a vanilla, that is covered in how to make your perfume last longer.